The nightlife wasn't up to much, but après-ski was great, especially at Usterwies on the Pengelstein run. Big terrace, friendly staff. Further down the Pengelstein run there is another après-ski hut that sells masses and masses of different shots, recognisable by the giant inflatable dinosaur outside.
In town, the Pavillon Bar on Hahnenkammstraße is fun but gets very busy. And watch out for the game that involves banging a nail into a stump of wood with the thin end of a hammer. If you lose (as I did), you have to buy all the drinks!
To recreate Austrian Après-ski magic from the comfort of your own home, just grab a beer, a bottle of schnapps, and put these songs on:
DJ Ötzi feat Nik P - Ein Stern (Der Deinen Namen trägt)
Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A_8dn_HykqI
DJ Ötzi & Marc Pircher - Sieben Sünden
Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rsm_UqvTYO0
...and my personal favourite: Peter Wackel - Joana
Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q83tz6oge7Q
For some reason, these three songs are played in every bar, every day, and they are major floor-fillers. DJ Ötzi (best known in the UK for his version of "Hey Baby") is huge in Austria.
Quick facts:
Best runs: 77 (red), 63 (black), 26 (blue), 27 (blue), 56 (black).
Best coffee: Bärenbadalm, restaurant at the top of the Bärenbadkogel lift.
Best hot chocolate: Usterwies (see above), on run 31.
Best ski-time lunch: The garlic cream soup at Tonialm, halfway down run 77.
Happy skiing!